March 10, 2010 - San Francisco
Here we are and here we have been for 3 whole weeks - hardly seems possible. I've put a calendar on the kitchen counter so that we can keep track of our busy schedule.
This AM I bought tickets for Pete, my brother, my niece and me to a documentary we'll go to next week - "Playland at the Beach." There must be hundreds of San Franciscans who grew up at Playland and are as excited as I am to see this film as the 7:00 showing is sold out. On Sunday afternoons my father, arriving home 3 hours later than he'd promised asked "where would you like to go this afternoon?" I always chose Playland - the best cotton candy, the laughing lady, the l-o-n-g slides in the fun house...we sat on gunny sacks to gather more speed as we flew down the slide which ran from the top floor of the funhouse to the 1st level at a very steep pitch. When I was too little to go on the "real" rides my mother put me in a little car that was attached to a track. The cars moved very slowly around a small circle. I FELL out of the car and cut my lip on the track...so much for safe rides designed for small children.
We've had some good times with our family: a late dinner (9:00) at a terrific up-scale SF hip restaurant on Market St. last Saturday night to celebrate the birthdays of Charlotte (14!) and her close friend, Bianca, also 14. Both families and Pete and I made 10 of us...Rosie was at a friend's.
On March 3rd Pete and I joined in for pizza at Alison and Matt's house in Oakland where 8 small people (2 and 3 year olds) and their mommys and some daddys and a few baby brothers and baby sister sang happy birthday to Max. It was great. Max, slightly overwhelmed by all those kids playing with HIS toys, took himself into his room and closed his door and stayed there for about 5 minutes...then he emerged re-energized happy to be the birthday boy again. I was impressed that there were no grown-ups involved in this...he's a sturdy little guy.
I'm worried I will loose the Italian I gained in Rome so I am taking 1 group class/week and another class with 1 other woman. My teacher, Pia, is good. I met her a number of years ago and have kept in touch. One nice advantage is that both classes are very close to Suzie - I can walk to both classes which are in the homes of her students here in Noe Valley.
Re. Italian: I'm making pasta! I started a few weeks ago making it completely by hand and it was not very good...I'd made a spinach/ricotta ravioli. I was talking about making pasta in my Italian class and Pia sent me an email offering me her pasta maker that her x-husband had purchased before he bought the BIG industrial one! Now I have a wonderful Italian pasta maker...I make the dough and run it through the pasta maker.. The pasta I made 2 nights ago was perfect - thin and tasty. Charlotte helped by running the sheets through the various cutting slots making a kind of angel hair pasta and a tagliatelli. I'll send it home to myself when we leave SF in 3 weeks.
Time to get ready for another day in SF. It's sunny but not very warm.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Friday, January 29, 2010
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Off to Lucia's for dinner. She makes a fantastic involtini - rolled beef.
Maybe we'll have time to write more. We're gearing up for leaving on Tuesday. I'll be sad to leave Rome but very happy to be in our house with WINDOWS.
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Version da Pietro
We've seen a lot but the highpoint is the Italian people - when they aren't in their cars. Their interest in what you're saying, their facial expressions and genuine affection total up into substantial pleasure.
The view from the steep hill a short distance to the west of us - looking out over the center of Rome to the east and St. Peters to the north - is wonderful. We have inched our way along the Roman Forum, guide book in hand - with translucent pages showing both the original scene and the modern ruins - to the extent that we could visualize the old for ourselves. We also saw the ruins from the high up perspective of the museum on top of the hill just above. We visited a friend of Gretchen's in his attic apartment, stepping over diagonal beams to get into his tiny rooms. He's a historian, originally from Indiana, who's been in Rome for many years.
We had quite an experience in a restaurant in what was once the Jewish ghetto - we call it Gretchen in carcere, i.e., Gretchen in prison. At about 3:30, after lunch, the three of us, Janet, Jill and I, filed out leaving Gretchen to go to the bathroom, telling her we would meet her in the Portico d' Ottavia immediately outside. The solitary restaurant employee dutifully turned out the lights and rolled down the metal door cover since we were the last people in the restaurant. Gretchen stumbled around in a sort of rabbit warren of passageway in the dark. Finding the light by a window looking out at us she telephoned Janet. It took 40 minutes for a neighboring store owner to locate the employee during which we talked and made gestures to Gretchen through the glass. Very funny.
Art grows on you. The saints and popes become familiar people. I've never before seen a statue where the hand print of the man is left in the woman's waist.
We visited the Jewish synagogue and museum. The history is sad. The Jewish population of Rome, including Libyans, is only 14,000. It is, however, now an active and hopeful community. The visit a week ago of Pope Benedict to the synagogue won't make much difference. We heard that Pope Pius XII will still be sanctified. The Vatican is reportedly anxious about the Islamic movement and not about to antagonize groups they see as allies.
Pietro.
The view from the steep hill a short distance to the west of us - looking out over the center of Rome to the east and St. Peters to the north - is wonderful. We have inched our way along the Roman Forum, guide book in hand - with translucent pages showing both the original scene and the modern ruins - to the extent that we could visualize the old for ourselves. We also saw the ruins from the high up perspective of the museum on top of the hill just above. We visited a friend of Gretchen's in his attic apartment, stepping over diagonal beams to get into his tiny rooms. He's a historian, originally from Indiana, who's been in Rome for many years.
We had quite an experience in a restaurant in what was once the Jewish ghetto - we call it Gretchen in carcere, i.e., Gretchen in prison. At about 3:30, after lunch, the three of us, Janet, Jill and I, filed out leaving Gretchen to go to the bathroom, telling her we would meet her in the Portico d' Ottavia immediately outside. The solitary restaurant employee dutifully turned out the lights and rolled down the metal door cover since we were the last people in the restaurant. Gretchen stumbled around in a sort of rabbit warren of passageway in the dark. Finding the light by a window looking out at us she telephoned Janet. It took 40 minutes for a neighboring store owner to locate the employee during which we talked and made gestures to Gretchen through the glass. Very funny.
Art grows on you. The saints and popes become familiar people. I've never before seen a statue where the hand print of the man is left in the woman's waist.
We visited the Jewish synagogue and museum. The history is sad. The Jewish population of Rome, including Libyans, is only 14,000. It is, however, now an active and hopeful community. The visit a week ago of Pope Benedict to the synagogue won't make much difference. We heard that Pope Pius XII will still be sanctified. The Vatican is reportedly anxious about the Islamic movement and not about to antagonize groups they see as allies.
Pietro.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Saturday 1/23
So many days gone by - so little time! Best to start with today and then maybe Pete can backtrack.
We've gotten lucky with the weather which has been bright and sunny for many days - yes cold, but we dress warmly so we're comfortable. We are still getting out of our cave very late in the AM. However, i don't think I would be happy with longer days as we seem to be able to pack in so much that by 6 we're ready to stop, do what both of us are doing right now (computers!) then dinner and bed. Today I walked across the Ponte Sisto to Campo Dei Fiori where Pete met me as he had something else to do 1st. I needed to get to the cheerful guy from whom Gretchen and I bought a bunch of plastic magical kitchen gadgets as there was one that I had no clue how to use! Now I know. The market in the campo was flourishing and a fantastic day for photos - sun, shadows, great faces, beautiful fruits and veggies...it was hard to tear myself away to go to our next destination, the Villa Giulia to see the collection in the Palazzo Spada - OK, I really have to leave this part up to Pete as he commits to memory what he sees; me....I see it, enjoy it and promptly forget. In most of these Palazzi there is SO much to see it's impossible to remember. I enjoy the experience though.
The sun was dropping fast and as we felt that going someplace high would give us a longer day we walked up to the Quirenale - the seat of the goverment offices and way back when was where the Pope hung out. We were right. It was beautiful and sunny up there as most of the city began to fall into shadow. We noticed people walking into one of the large buildings with an equally large inner court yard. We found out there was a special exhibit inside so in we went. It was a small fantastic exhibit from a museum in Jordan of ancient relics from that area: the oldest statue in the world, date on plaque - 7500 BC. No photos allowed but somehow I was able to capture this statue ;-) - I had a wide lens on my camera so that I did not need to look through the view finder: just cough and push the shutter release...
We walked back slowly to our cave. Rome is hopping on Saturdays and like last Saturday night it feels as if everyone is out and happy. We stopped on our way back at the Trevi fountain where it seemed the hordes were photographing each other more than the fountain.
Now out for dinner. Gretchen and Jill left this morning. We'll miss their company.
I'll try to get some good photos up either after dinner or tomorrow.
bye bye for now...Giannetta
We've gotten lucky with the weather which has been bright and sunny for many days - yes cold, but we dress warmly so we're comfortable. We are still getting out of our cave very late in the AM. However, i don't think I would be happy with longer days as we seem to be able to pack in so much that by 6 we're ready to stop, do what both of us are doing right now (computers!) then dinner and bed. Today I walked across the Ponte Sisto to Campo Dei Fiori where Pete met me as he had something else to do 1st. I needed to get to the cheerful guy from whom Gretchen and I bought a bunch of plastic magical kitchen gadgets as there was one that I had no clue how to use! Now I know. The market in the campo was flourishing and a fantastic day for photos - sun, shadows, great faces, beautiful fruits and veggies...it was hard to tear myself away to go to our next destination, the Villa Giulia to see the collection in the Palazzo Spada - OK, I really have to leave this part up to Pete as he commits to memory what he sees; me....I see it, enjoy it and promptly forget. In most of these Palazzi there is SO much to see it's impossible to remember. I enjoy the experience though.
The sun was dropping fast and as we felt that going someplace high would give us a longer day we walked up to the Quirenale - the seat of the goverment offices and way back when was where the Pope hung out. We were right. It was beautiful and sunny up there as most of the city began to fall into shadow. We noticed people walking into one of the large buildings with an equally large inner court yard. We found out there was a special exhibit inside so in we went. It was a small fantastic exhibit from a museum in Jordan of ancient relics from that area: the oldest statue in the world, date on plaque - 7500 BC. No photos allowed but somehow I was able to capture this statue ;-) - I had a wide lens on my camera so that I did not need to look through the view finder: just cough and push the shutter release...
We walked back slowly to our cave. Rome is hopping on Saturdays and like last Saturday night it feels as if everyone is out and happy. We stopped on our way back at the Trevi fountain where it seemed the hordes were photographing each other more than the fountain.
Now out for dinner. Gretchen and Jill left this morning. We'll miss their company.
I'll try to get some good photos up either after dinner or tomorrow.
bye bye for now...Giannetta
Monday, January 18, 2010
photos
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Saturday Nite Live
Our street in Travestere is really hopping, even more than near the Pantheon where we had dinner and then heard an American chorus sing in a beautiful grand church. Street singer with accompanying chimes just around the corner. A young Italian girl at the streetcar stop came up and asked if we had seen Mrs. Doubtfire. I thought she meant it was playing at a cinema in Rome. Turns out she meant Janet reminded her of Mrs. Doubtfire. Those quaint English speakers, you know. Funny because I had told Gretchen (friend who is here) the other night that SHE looked like Mrs. Doubtfire. Anyway we connected about Robin Williams and I did a little Robin Williams/Mrs. Doubtfire falsetto routine.
The more remote past here is a blur. Have seen approximately 4,972 shards. It's all a big jig saw puzzle without the box cover to guide you.
This morning I jogged across the river and up a couple of streets to the Circus Maximus (Circo Massimo to us Italians). Ran around it once - 600 meters down the stretch. It was hard to imagine chariots racing where I was running but I tried. We had dinner with an American friend of a friend who is part of a group trying to revive the chariot races in the Circo Massimo - an exciting venture.
Having some gorgeous sunny days. Good for wandering in and out of narrow streets, into sunny piazzas and along the river. Janet photographed skateboarders today on the island in the river near us.
At night it's cold but tonight all the outdoor tables are crammed with people. Heat lamps keep the diners warm.
Tomorrow the Pope is visiting Rabbi Goldbergi (joke) at the main synagogue across the river from
us. Lots of T.V. station vehicles parked outside today. Somehow we didn't receive I.D. cards for entrance.
Don't ask me who was buried in Caesar's tomb when we return. Each new fact seems to wipe the slate clean. Oh well, it's good to start each day with an open mind. I can remember the visuals, which is good because it saves on postcards.
The more remote past here is a blur. Have seen approximately 4,972 shards. It's all a big jig saw puzzle without the box cover to guide you.
This morning I jogged across the river and up a couple of streets to the Circus Maximus (Circo Massimo to us Italians). Ran around it once - 600 meters down the stretch. It was hard to imagine chariots racing where I was running but I tried. We had dinner with an American friend of a friend who is part of a group trying to revive the chariot races in the Circo Massimo - an exciting venture.
Having some gorgeous sunny days. Good for wandering in and out of narrow streets, into sunny piazzas and along the river. Janet photographed skateboarders today on the island in the river near us.
At night it's cold but tonight all the outdoor tables are crammed with people. Heat lamps keep the diners warm.
Tomorrow the Pope is visiting Rabbi Goldbergi (joke) at the main synagogue across the river from
us. Lots of T.V. station vehicles parked outside today. Somehow we didn't receive I.D. cards for entrance.
Don't ask me who was buried in Caesar's tomb when we return. Each new fact seems to wipe the slate clean. Oh well, it's good to start each day with an open mind. I can remember the visuals, which is good because it saves on postcards.
Wednesday, January 13, 2010
1/10 photos
I am trying to add photos but perhaps they are too large for the site so I'll go back and shrink them and carry on..
OK - these new photos are of our little apartment. In one you are looking from our bedroom to the door..my back is to the bathroom. In another the tiny "kitchen." Is it a kitchen if it doesn't have an oven?
Other photos of the the mall that Pete described in his earlier post. Then there is the quintessential ROME photo of the Victoriana at night as we were leaving a wonderful exhibit at the Capitoline Museo - Michaelangelo's influence on Rome - maybe I talked about that - or Pete did in previous post??
OK - these new photos are of our little apartment. In one you are looking from our bedroom to the door..my back is to the bathroom. In another the tiny "kitchen." Is it a kitchen if it doesn't have an oven?
Other photos of the the mall that Pete described in his earlier post. Then there is the quintessential ROME photo of the Victoriana at night as we were leaving a wonderful exhibit at the Capitoline Museo - Michaelangelo's influence on Rome - maybe I talked about that - or Pete did in previous post??
Monday, January 11, 2010
Arthur said...
Io sono Pietro (married to Gianetta). Today we visited Maria Grazia Luffarelli. She painted the little boats that Jacob and Alicia have, the frog that Matt and Alison have, the goat going up the hill that Suzie and Brian have and the birds in the Sun Room in Vermont. She remembered us cordially.
Last night we had a fantastic experience in modern Rome - at an enormous shopping mall in a suburb. We took public transportation to get there - an exciting adventure in itself - and then spotted in the distance the brightly lit glass dome of the mall. Tall marble Obelisks punctuated atriums along the first floor corridors. It seems the typical village passagiatta (promenade) has been reestab lished in the mall. Handsome families with babies in strollers, many with accompanying dogs, parade down the aisles. The dogs are brave, not balking at the escalators.
In case anyone is worried we aren't seeing any art, relax. We saw a Bernini statue at a nearby church here in Trastevere and Raphael frescoes in a palace just down the street.
Oh yes, we're aren't starving either.
Io sono Pietro (married to Gianetta). Today we visited Maria Grazia Luffarelli. She painted the little boats that Jacob and Alicia have, the frog that Matt and Alison have, the goat going up the hill that Suzie and Brian have and the birds in the Sun Room in Vermont. She remembered us cordially.
Last night we had a fantastic experience in modern Rome - at an enormous shopping mall in a suburb. We took public transportation to get there - an exciting adventure in itself - and then spotted in the distance the brightly lit glass dome of the mall. Tall marble Obelisks punctuated atriums along the first floor corridors. It seems the typical village passagiatta (promenade) has been reestab lished in the mall. Handsome families with babies in strollers, many with accompanying dogs, parade down the aisles. The dogs are brave, not balking at the escalators.
In case anyone is worried we aren't seeing any art, relax. We saw a Bernini statue at a nearby church here in Trastevere and Raphael frescoes in a palace just down the street.
Oh yes, we're aren't starving either.
Sunday, January 10, 2010
j and p in Rome 1/2010
I've just learned how to set up a blog - thank you Jacob. I will begin by blogging our days here in Rome.
Day 1 - 5. A bit overwhelming to arrive at the apartment after no sleep on the plane and see that it is smaller than expected and very dark - 4 small windows - 2 in front main room..one above entrance door - and 2 in the back of apt in the bathroom. However, it is nicely set up and now, after 5 full days of getting our bearings and settling in we are finding the apartment cozy and comfortable.
We are in the area of Trastevere just off a main walking street with many tiny shops and small trattorie. It's late right now so tomorrow I will write about what we've been seeing during these 5 days. I will just say that today we took a bus to the ancient Via Appia and walked for about an hour along the narrow roadway that was the main route between Rome and Capua (near Naples) running in a perfectly straight line, built in 312 BC. There was a long piece of the road laid with large flat stones...no car traffic allowed, we were walking - and one could see the imprint of carriage tracks. I will need to read up to know whether these tracks and stones are what remain of the original road. When we visited Ehpesis in Turkey we saw similar tracks so I'm inclined to believe they could be from the earliest period of the Appian Way.
Photos are from 1st 3 days when it was not raining all day. The photo of the guy reading the newspaper was taken in Upim department store. I was paying for the pillow I had bought and turned around to see the guy behind the newspapers (Pete!) and his monkey friends.
More tomorrow
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